—— Learn to identify and fix common home wiring issues safely.
Turn off power at the main breaker before working.
Use a non-contact voltage tester to double-check.
Always wear insulated gloves and eye protection.
Digital multimeter ; Non-contact voltage tester ; Screwdrivers ; Wire strippers ;Electrical tape ; Flashlight or headlamp.
Standard branch circuits: 15A for light & regular outlet; 20A for kitchen outlet; 30A for Dryer; 50A for Range.
Outlets, switches, and lights are wired in series and parallel.
Circuit breakers protect circuits from overloads or short circuits.
Use your home's panel schedule (or create one) to identify which breaker controls each room.
Multiple outlets or lights stop working in a single area.
Check breaker: Is it tripped? If yes, reset it.
If it trips again, unplug all devices in the room and try resetting it. If it still trips after all devices have been unplugged, check for a short circuit or other issues that may be causing the tripping. Click here to learn how to identify a short circuit.
Use a voltage tester at the outlet to check for power.
If no power, check the first outlet in the circuit for a loose wire or burn mark.
The loose wire might be in the first box on the circuit that has no power, or in the box just before it—like a plug, switch, or light fixture box.
Tighten or rewire if necessary. Replace if damaged.
Outlet not working, or warm/hot to the touch.
Turn off power and verify it's off.
Remove the outlet cover and outlet from the box.
Inspect for:
Loose wires
Backstabbed wires (prefer side-screwed)
Burnt or melted plastic
If damaged, replace the outlet with a new tamper-resistant model.
Ensure wires are secured clockwise under screw terminals.
Light flickers or doesn't turn on.
Replace bulb with known working one.
Check light switch wiring for looseness.
Test for power at switch terminals with multimeter.
If no power, trace back to the breaker panel or junction box.
Look for signs of overheating or corrosion at connections.
Voltage Mode (AC): Test outlets and switches.
Continuity Mode: Check if a wire or switch is working (power OFF).
Resistance Mode: For testing light bulbs or heating elements.
Test an outlet for 120V between hot and neutral, or hot and ground.
Check continuity of a switch with leads across terminals.
GFCI won’t reset or keeps tripping.
Press RESET button – does it click and stay?
If not, unplug all devices and try again.
If still no reset:
Check wiring: LINE and LOAD reversed?
Check for moisture in box or device failure.
Replace GFCI if necessary. Always test after installation.
One or both switches not controlling the light properly.
Label wires before disconnecting.
Label the wires of Common terminal (usually black screw) and Traveler terminals
Identify:
Common terminal (usually black screw)
In a 3-way switch setup, one switch's common terminal is connected to the power source, and the other switch's common terminal is connected to the light.
Traveler terminals
The traveler terminals are the other two terminals on a 3-way switch. These are used to carry current between the two switches
Use continuity test (power off) to identify function.
Replace switch if defective, or rewire correctly.
Working on live circuits.
Backstabbing wires (use side screw terminals instead).
Mixing wire gauges on the same circuit.
Overfilling junction boxes.
Using indoor-rated components in damp/wet locations.
Diagnose a circuit with partial power loss.
Replace and test a faulty GFCI.
Rewire an outlet with reversed polarity.
A bathroom light flickers randomly.
The kitchen outlet near the sink has no power.
A garage light stays on despite switch being off.
Always verify with code compliance (e.g., Canadian Electrical Code or NEC).
If unsure, consult a licensed electrician.